Surfing: As Fun As You’ve Ever Heard

Three days.

That’s how many days of successive attempts it took for me to stand and ride my first wave.

I’ll back up for a second- since my last “Surf’s Up” post, I’ve had quite the surf training. The burnt nipples healed, and the board rash (mostly) went away. I certainly learned from that experience- men with chest hair need to wear rash guards (the special Billabong shirt). The enthusiasm didn’t die out in the slightest- I spent extra time at the gym working on my balance, went swimming a few times, stocked up on sunscreen, and headed out west. Way west.

In May, one of my good buddies invited me out for a trip to hit the waves. What a good friend he and his lady were, too, taking me out each night and driving me around every day. When we got to the beach that first day, I rented a 9’2″ surfboard, which is actually a huge freakin’ board. What you normally see on surf videos is people riding boards that are six feet or less in length, allowing the rider to quickly maneuver all over the wave. The general principle is: the longer the board, the easier it will be to catch a wave. In theory, anyway. Even after learning how to properly balance and paddle, I had a hard time catching a wave and riding it, without attempting to stand.

But as the adage goes, practice really does make perfect. The easiest way to learn to stand was just by riding out a bunch of waves on my belly. Learning how your board works with your body is just as important as learning how the waves are breaking. That’s the first barrier to surfing, and once past that, you’re a little bit closer. The  unexpected problem I had was the simplest part of surfing- paddling. Paddling out from break to break, catching up with your friends, and riding back out past the shore absolutely kicked my ass. My neck, shoulders, and triceps were SCREAMING after the first day. Without the bruises and little cuts that came with the territory, that exhaustion would have been enough to make the casual adventurer take a break, but I pressed on.

Throughout the first two days, I got tossed from wave to wave, nosedived off the front of the board, hit rocks, and wiped out like a fucking champ. And that’s really what it takes for you to learn the hard way how to surf- you get mopped like the ocean’s bitch. Despite learning the proper techniques and methods before heading out, the only way to properly surf is to fail, fail, think you’re doing a little bit better, and then fail even harder than the first time. After all of the wipe outs, you finally start to learn, feel, and listen to the combination of your body’s existence and the presence of the ocean. Then, and only then, does it all come together.

This is a normal occurrence when I surf.

This is a normal occurrence when I surf.

Once I was properly educated by the waves, I just stopped to listen and watch. I sat up on the board in the mix with all the other (and better) surfers, which, to be completely honest, is one of the subtle rewards of surfing: just to be able to sit in the water and bullshit with people makes it worth the pain. It was at this point where I finally felt comfortable and spotted my wave. My wave was just how I like the women in my life: tall, curvy, and hurtling right toward me. It’s a sight I won’t soon forget. I spun around towards the shore, started paddling, and without looking back, let the wave take me in. That was the big difference- I stopped trying. I just let it be. At that point, surfing becomes second nature. The pop-up felt routine, I stood with my feet in a natural position, and rode the wave out until it died (RIP Julia, my first wave). I didn’t even wipe out- I got off the board on my own accord.

That is the secret to surfing. However you want to say it, “just let it be,” just be super casual,” “just relax,” “don’t think about it,” or “just do it.” Whatever way you get into the zone, just let it happen. Once you reach that point, surfing becomes one of the most rewarding experiences you can give yourself. Unlike other sports, like skating or running, where you are moving across a stable surface, surfing is one of the only sports where you are on an uncontrollable, moving surface. With that in mind, you have to go with that surface – that wave – and become a part of it. Once you ride that first wave, you realize what every other surfer has concluded: surfing is exactly as fun as you’ve ever heard anyone say it is.

After catching the first wave on that bigass board. I told you it was huge!

After catching the first wave on that bigass board. I told you it was huge!

At this point, I’m hooked. I’ve already had additional surf experiences back in Florida since this first trip. Arguably the best spot to hit the waves is Cocoa Beach, so the day after tropical storm Andrea passed, I headed straight over to the east coast and kept the momentum going. This time, I was ready and caught  a ton of waves. No soreness, no rash, no problem.

A collection of boards at Ron Jon Surf Shop.

A collection of boards at Ron Jon Surf Shop.

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Chilling outside Ron Jon.

With hurricane season just underway, I’m looking forward to the next big wave. I’m not going to let Florida confine me once it’s done.

 

Shaka, bro.

SHAKA, BRO.

Beck’s Song Reader – “Please Leave A Light On When You Go”

Last December, the popular artist Beck gave all of us musicians a real treat by releasing a brand new album. The album, Song Reader, has 20 new songs, but you won’t be able to find this Beck work on iTunes or available for streaming on Spotify.

Instead of releasing a traditional album, Beck opted to publish his entire album as a book of sheet music. Meaning, although Beck wrote all the songs, he didn’t record a single one. Instead, he gave us the blueprints to complete the art together, encouraging each person to record and upload their works to be shared on the collaborative website, www.songreader.net.

My copy of Song Reader arrived at the end of March. The first song that I chose to record, “Please Leave A Light On When You Go,” took me a couple of months to actually produce. I didn’t know how to record music going into this endeavor, and I still admit that I don’t really have a solid grasp on it.  Nonetheless, I found out how to hook up a couple of instruments to my laptop and somehow made it work. I spent night after night trying to fine tune the song, but being the perfectionist that I am, I realized that if I just didn’t put it out there and move on, I would probably never be totally satisfied with it. I just had to do it!

The result is indexed on the www.songreader.net site and on YouTube at:

I hope you sincerely enjoy it. I’m working on another song from Song Reader, which I hope to have wrapped up in the coming weeks. Thanks for listening!

Oh, one more thing: if you have any tips on recording, please send them over to eliottlarge@gmail.com or write in the comments!

Surfing: First Attempt

I wanted to learn how to surf for the past month, so I went out and did it.

 

The problem, I realized after the first week, is that you need to have waves to surf in order to actually surf. Here in Florida’s Gulf Coast, there are rarely any waves.

 

Fuck it, I told myself. I’m going to learn as much as I can.

 

And learn I did. For the past two weeks, I studied  YouTube videos like a fucking pro for  surf tutorials. I asked around the local surf shops on how to prepare, to which they responded, “swim, balance, and YouTube.” Nice, I thought. I can watch YouTube with the best of them. I know how to swim already, so that was crossed off the list. The rest of the week was spent balancing on Bosu balls at the gym, and watching more YouTube videos. I practiced pop-ups from the ground, (I am “regular-footed,” meaning that I lead with my left foot first, as opposed to my right, which is called “goofy-footed.”), and rode some Vew-Do boards without totally busting my ass. A couple more YouTube videos on my bed and a few more pop-ups and I was ready to go. Right?

 

Fucking right. On Saturday afternoon, I rented a board and hit the shores. I knew and I didn’t care that there weren’t supposed to be any waves in Florida- I just wanted to learn the very basics about balancing on the board, and if I could get lucky, maybe catch a wave. As it turns out, the first day I went out, there were plenty of waves from an oncoming  storm. The time was right, and I dove in with my rental board.

 

The water was fine, the waves were abundant, but I only lasted  less than an hour. I couldn’t make it anymore- for some reason,  my stomach felt like it was on fire. Why was my stomach burning so much?

 

Throughout all of my discovery, not a single surfer,  surf video, or surf shop owner bothered to mention board rash to me. Being that I  have the chest hair of a Greek god, it would have been nice to know that the wax on the board was going to rip me apart, in addition to the waves. WHY DID THEY ASSUME I WOULD ALREADY HAVE A SPECIAL BILLABONG SURF SHIRT?

 

Check out the damage. Even my nips are burnt.

Check out the damage after the second day. Even my nips are burnt.

 

I went back out on Sunday to find no waves, but my balance was plenty better. I’m going to let my nipples heal for the next week, and then I’ll do it again!

2010s

We’ve accomplished quite a bit as a global society in our time. We have medicine, which is absolutely fucking amazing when you really think about how you no longer die when you catch a cold. We can fly across oceans to other continents, which I am still in disbelief about every time I am taking off in a plane (a seldom occurrence as it is). We have industry, which thanks to capitalists, continues to offer us technological solutions to problems that were commonplace a mere decade ago.

 

Culturally, we have great masterworks of music, cinema, art, and plenty of other studies. I’ve been wondering lately about what the 2010s will being to the table. In the 1990s, cellphones and Pokémon changed the world (OK, cellphones did). In the 2000s, we had The Strokes, (and, uh, access to the culmination of human knowledge accessible to us for free at any time we wanted in the form of the Internet, I guess.) What have the 2010s offered us so far?

 

For one, we have Chris Brown.  We can also check Facebook on our phones, and that’s truly worth everything we’ve ever worked towards, isn’t it?

 

…ha ha ha.

 

What I’d really like to say is that, essentially, this decade has so far, in its first two years, offered us very little actual cultural contribution. The most promising event was the Occupy movement, but that was quickly crushed/dismissed as being disorganized and full of hipsters and druggies. What will our creativity, drive, and technological development push us towards accomplishing during the next 8 years? For the first time in human history, with the use of the Internet and cellphones, time and distance mean very little in interpersonal communications. Can we make the most of this realization and communicate with each other in hopes of making a better world for us all?

 

If not, at least we can check out what high school locker partners and old romantic interests are doing on our phones. And isn’t that a good life?

 

Well, good enough.

 

Eliott Gets A Taste of TED

December 2012. It is a memorable month for a memorable year. The world is supposedly ending next weekThe Beatles and Nirvana merged, sort of. Most importantly, on December 12, 2012, Sarasota held its very first TEDx.

TEDxSarasota, which shares the namesake and general objectives as the official TED conferences but is also entirely independent, was held at the historic John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art. In keeping the “theme of twelve,” the event lasted for twelve hours (again, on the date 12/12/12). It truly was a day of ideas worth spreading.

The day was divided into sections of live lectures, video presentations, and communicative activities in the TEDx WonderZone. Each third of the day corresponded to creation: Creating Connections in the morning, Creating Change in the afternoon, and culminating with Creating Opportunity in the evening. Aside from the four outstanding TEDTalks that were screened (this one by Chade-Meng Tan was my favorite), the day was jam-packed with free-thinking local leaders, creators, and true change agents from across the Sarasota area.

TEDxSarasota easily surpassed my expectations. With a day chock-full of presenters, valuable insight was gained every minute of the day. Let’s take a moment to summarize some of the highlights:

TEDxSarasota Speakers’ Roundtable

  • The day started with rock- a couple of guitar performances, and a presentation from Tony Michaelides, a.k.a. “Tony the Greek,” one of the men who put David Bowie, The Police, and U2 on the map. His point? Keep plugging away- you’re going to work through lots of terrible jobs to get through to what you want to do, but it’s always worth it. I was able to speak with him later in the day about the role perseverance played in his life, which was just one of the themes throughout the day. In addition to that, we spoke at length about how technology is disrupting the music industry’s recording and promotion standards – for the better. A kid in his bedroom has just as much access to instrumentation and promotional tools that are packaged with his laptop that even the biggest names in British rock couldn’t even dream of in their heyday. It is truly remarkable how easily accessible new markets become even to the youngest of minds.
  • A memorable presentation for its message as well as its flash was by Theresa Rose’s “The Hoop Revolution.” Her story was about her revelation of non-doing. In her life, her inactivity was driving herself to ruin by causing her ill health, a lack of morale, and was effecting her relationships with the people she loved. She decided to change herself by trying all sorts of activities, mental and physical, but nothing resonated with her as much as hula hooping. The hoop, it seems, ignited her passion for life. When she started hula hooping, she was hardly able to do it for the people in her own house. Now, with the confidence bestowed upon her by her dedicated practice, she could hula hoop for crows of people with the utmost confidence, transferring her passion and humor to each person in the crowd. The biggest thing I took away from it was: have fun and move. The word “exercise” can have negative connotations to it. The word “fun” never does.

Theresa Rose

  • Dr. Nick Whitney’s “The Secret Lives of Wild Animals” was as funny as it was revealing. Aside from being an excellent presenter with great stories about using his children as research assistants, Dr. Whitney detailed his work in tagging marine wildlife with accelerometers, which are easily identified in our cellphones and video game controllers, to study the behavioral motion of marine animals. This is beneficial to the animals, humans, and the environment. For the animals, researchers can study the behavioral patterns of a tagged animal to know when it could be in trouble and reach it in time to save its life. The example benefit for humans was a bit odd, but in essence, accelerometers could be attached to jumping tank fish to further learn about the conditions in which the tank fish jump out of the water, so that boaters and fishermen can be made aware of when not to enter the waters and avoid getting hit. Lastly, for the environment, the benefit for tagging marine wildlife is to understand normal behaviors from abnormal behaviors, because if there is a reading of a large number of subjects that is out of the ordinary, that could mean that something greater is happening across the animals’ environment.

Dr. Nick Whitney

In my past travels, I have seen what the world’s foremost innovation areas have to offer. I’ve strolled the Googleplex in Silicon Valley, had coffee at Amazon’s Seattle office, and seen the innards of a cutting edge data center in London. The one area that I see Sarasota having the most in common with is Silicon Hills in Austin, Texas. This lesser-known compliment to California’s Silicon Valley is home to a plethora of tech firms both big and small, including Blizzard, Apple, HP, Cisco, Hoover’s, Intel, Oracle, and plenty of others. Even though Austin is the capital of Texas, it hardly seems representative of the things that come to mind when you think of Texas – cowboys, blonde hair dye, and giant steak dinners. Austin is weird. So weird, in fact, that its slogan is “Keep Austin Weird.” Likewise, Sarasota has many features and qualities that separate it from the rest of the state – world-class cultural institutions, bike trails, and the nation’s top beach destination in Siesta Key. Between Austin and Sarasota, there is actually quite a bit in common. The year-round climates are nearly identical, both regions attract young, creative students (hipsters abound!), there is essentially one main hangout street in each city (6th Street in Austin and Main Street in Sarasota), and they are both contain huge geographical areas in their city limits. The latter point is recognizable in Austin, because the tech firms are fairly spread out throughout the city’s surroundings, as opposed to consolidating in the city center. Sarasota can attract these high-quality firms and place them the exact same way, as we have so much land available to do so. Since seeing Silicon Hills, I’ve always imagined Sarasota becoming a great tech-destination. With the momentum following the valuable insight and connection from TEDxSarasota, we can turn Sarasota into a desirable tech hub. We can call it “Silicon Sands.”

Going forward, the lessons and connections from TEDxSarasota cannot be forgotten. Our community must communicate and stick together to drive the point that we can – and yearn to – become a greater technological destination. We have the environment to attract tech companies to our region. We have the right people that are creating the foundation for things to come. What we need now is for the organizations that promote Sarasota as a place to live and work to come together with the area’s innovators to put their heads together to place Sarasota on the technological map. We can do it. TEDxSarasota proved to me that we’re already doing it. By the time the next TEDxSarasota occurs, we will have made even more great strides towards this goal.

Let us work with one another in speech, with our Facebook and Twitter profiles, on the beaches and trails, in our storefronts and markets, and on our streets and neighborhoods to let it be known that Sarasota is going to be a truly-connected tech destination. The only thing that can hold us back is our own resolve. I’m ready. Are you?